So today Jesse, Cary and James and I met up again. Yesterday we had decided to go up the mount of Olives, and from there down into the Kidron valley to poke around at some tombs (like the tomb of absalom) and such. Well this morning Jesse asks if I want to go to the zoo instead. It's actually a quite famous zoo, called the biblical zoo and has a good reputation. I'm all for it. Also, today he is having a fast day. I know I've said his posistion to religion has in the past seemed ambiguous, but today I saw a different side of him. More on that later. Anyway, today is the day the Romans breached the wall of the city, three weeks before the destructing of the second temple in 70 C.E on the 9th of Av (in the jewish calendar the months are different) so today is a solemn day. In fact for the next three weeks Orthodox jews aren't allowed to wash their clothes- it's considered a time of mourning.
So we meet up with James and Cary and he asks if they want to go to the zoo instead. He doesnt say its because hes fasting, but I think it's a smarter idea since he's going without food AND water. However, James is set on going to the mount of Olives. Finally Jesse relents since it was the original plan. He says nothing about the fast but I'm a bit worried, it's extremely hot, more towards 90 than 80 and we'll be doing a hike.
Well, it was quite the hike to the view point which is right above the oldest jewish cemetary in the world. Apparently the mount of olives is where the messiah will return and so everone wants to be buried there so their body doesnt have far to go to return to the messiah. It's ancient and people still get buried there today- though it costs a lot I'm told. Can you imagine being buried right where your ancient ancestors were buried?Then Jesse was telling us when the Jordanians were in control of the area they used some of the stones of tombs for pavement and construction projects. I just couldnt believe how they disregarded the Jewish people's most importat and ancient cemetary. Jesse sounded so bitter when he talked about it. Unfortunately it wasn't the last I'd hear of his unhappiness. As we looked at the dome of the Rock we talked about how there are some jews who are making things for the day when the third temple is rebuilt. Like a huge gold menorah that costs millions. Ok I think some background is needed so here's a very simple history lesson:
The temple mount is the location of the most holy site in Judaism, where Solomon built the first temple, which was destroyed in 586 BC when the jews were exiled and Jerusalem was destroyed. Then, later, King Herod rebuilt the temple making the temple mount twice the size and building a grand temple. That was destroyed in 70 C.E by the Romans who then destroyed the city. From about 135 to 1967 Israel was never in the hands of the Jews, constantly ruled by foriegn powers. At some point, the Muslims built the Dome of the rock where the jews' ancient temple once stood. Jesse told us when they were in charge it was a law that nothing could be built bigger than that dome- which is why the dome of the church of the oSepluchre is exactly 1 cm smaller.
Now, everyday when the jewish people look at that huge golden dome they are reminded that thier holy site was not only destroyed twice, but taken from them comepletely. Now a Muslim dome domiates what was once theirs. We visited the Domus Flavius, the spot where Jesus mourned the coming destruction of the second temple (before it happened). Jesse couldn't go in, nor could James or I because we hadn't dressed right (though Cary was prepared) but at one point while sitting outside waiting for her return Jesse muttered "Its a good place to be today. Where Jesus mourned the loss of temple." here he paused and said "I'm mourning it too" and it was just so sad, just like he really felt the loss.
I know some may not get it. I mean, it happened 2,000 years ago. But it's been happening to the Jewish people for all of history. Now that I'm learning about it, the story of Jerusalem is heart breaking. Again and again the jews revolt and fight to return home and again and again it is taken from them, changes hands, they get exiled or are denied the right to worship or are brutally murdered, it's just one 3,000 year old tragedy. I told him honestly I'd love to see the day when the Jewish people are able to build the third temple. Though that cant happen with the Dome of the Rock there, and the palestinians aren't exactly going to give it up. In fact Jessue thinks the city is going to be partitioned again in the future at some point, which means they are going to divide it up because it's impossible to have it be the capital for two peoples. I don't know if he was just in a bad mindset because of the date but I would hate to see that happen, it would be going backwards.
After the six days war when The Jewish people regained control of Israel in 1967 they could have blown it up after all that was done to them. Instead, they returned the keys to the muslim (palestinian?) authorities and refused to blow up any Holy site of any denomination in retaliation. The whole Jewish quarter was in RUINS and their syagoge had been blown up and just got rebuilt recently, yet they decided to be tolerant and follow do an eye for a eye despite the horrors that had been put through. How does a people who have been treated with nothing but disregard, disrespect and destruction have the strength to do that? And because of this enormous show of of respect they lost the only chance to regain their holy site. Amazing.
So it was a very powerful walk, we passed the area of Olive trees outside the church of nations where Jesus actually was said to have wept for the temple, and Jesse said they were around in Jesus' time. All my information is from him for now, by the way. So, we saw some tombs but it had been three hours by the time we were coming back up the kidron valley and the heat was oppressive. I was terrible thirsty, two whole water bottles were not nearly enough water. I hadnt eaten since lunch ad lunch was some crackers and hummus so I was terribly weak. Though I wasn't hungry. The thought of putting anything but liquid in my parched mouth sounded painful, like eating ash or sand. I couldnt bear the thought of anything but some refreshing liquid. I was getting very worried for Jesse. By now we were all quiet just trying to make it back.
At one point when we were finally in the city again Jesse sat down and just muttered "I just need a drink" he sounded like he was in pain. I asked if he was okay, he said he was. The whole day though really seemed to hit him. lLke he really felt the pain of 3,000 years of misery of his people on 19 year old shoulders. I honestly havent seen anything quite like it. Despite that he sometimes can seem ambiguous about his stance on religion, today was a day he really seemed connected with it. He seemed older tha he was, like he was bearing the weight of his own history. Though I'm sure fasting made it impossible to forget. Later on our way home after Jesse had left I mentioned that I had no idea how he had gotten through a whole hike up a mountain and down into a valley and back up in such intense desert heat with NOTHING, no water or food. James made a comment that it was his own choice, to take such a walk on a fast day. I wanted to shake him ad say do you think the zoo idea had NOTHING to do with it? Never once did Jesse admit it, but I'm sure it sounded a lot more appealing to someone who is fasting than a hike. Of course he wasn't going to back out though! He's such a stereotypical guy!
Anyway, afterwards I got in and my roommate approached me about something. She said the boiler had been left on for three hours. Remember I said you have to turn a switch to get hot water, apparently it turns the boiler on and you have to turn it off when you are done, which I am careful about doing. But I guess it had been accidently left on and she assumed it was me. I know I'm usually good about it, but since I'm new and not used to it there is a chance once I just forgot to flick the switch on my way out. I apologized thinking somethig was wrong with the boiler now. She admitted no, its more about money- it costs to have it on so really I should only be flicking it 20-30 minutes before a shower, not a hour which I honestly thought was how long it took. I apologized and offered to help pay for the extra money it had cost but she said no, no its fine and left with a gentle kind of "dont do it again" type of message. I felt so horrible though! Also it was awkward because it's not the one roommate I'm really friendly with. This girl is nice enough but we dont really talk so it was awkward. I just apologized profusely.
Then I was exhausted. I knew I needed to eat, but still wasnt hungry. However if I stayed in until it got dark I wouldnt want to go out and would just end up eating more hummus and crackers or some granola bars. I dont cook. Well I might try if grocerey shopping weren't so intimidating. Nothing is in english letters so I cant even guess at directions. Even if I did bring someone with me, which I could, I hate taking the time to cook and I dont feel comfortable over here doing it. At home 'll cook pasta or girlled cheese or something simple but here in a strange itchen using other people's things its just, harder. I have so much else I'd rather be doing here than getting ingredients and messing about trying to cobble together a meal. I want fast and easy so most times I end up snacking instead of making a meal at all, which is no good. Then when I do get to the point where I need a meal I go out, and whatever I get is probably junk. So it's a really bad system, but I'm annoyed at having to eat. It inconveniences me.
So today being all tired and annoyed I forced myself to walk down the street and get a falafel. Then to the grocerey store for a few more yogurts. If I could live on yogurt, I would be thrilled, tastey, fast and easy. It's the amy type of meal. I also treated myself to an iced coffee after so long in the sun without adequate water. I did bring water, and bought some while we were out but it still wasnt enough! I'm just bad at fending for myself. Well, in foreign countries. At home at easier to eat, here I have to go out of my way when doing something else, which annoys me.
So finally the day is over, whew.
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